Women Are Weaving Their Way Into Traditionally Male-Dominated Craft

Through initiatives like Project Unnati, thousands of Indian women are rediscovering the value of their hands—not just as caretakers of tradition but as creators of opportunity

For centuries, the intricate art of embroidery and stitching in India has been a testament to the country's unparalleled craftsmanship. From the dazzling Zardozi of Lucknow to the exquisite Kantha of Bengal, these delicate stitches have told stories of culture, heritage, and artistry. However, while embroidery and tailoring are often perceived as domestic skills, professional stitching and embroidery—especially in luxury fashion, bespoke tailoring, and high-end textile craftsmanship—have traditionally been male-dominated industries.

Speaking to Bizz Buzz, Ridhima Bahuguna, Co-Founder, Roots Foundation says, “When we started Project Unnati at Roots Foundation, we witnessed this reality first-hand. Women who had spent their lives stitching within the confines of their homes never saw themselves as skilled artisans. They didn’t believe their craft could translate into financial independence. Trapped by both social and personal circumstances and self-doubt, they hesitated to see themselves as professionals.”

Her colleague, Nehal Rajvanshi said, “As our flagship skilling initiative, Project Unnati aims to change this age-old situation – we work towards enabling livelihood enhancement for women through industry-focused training and entrepreneurial support. By nurturing their skills and confidence, we are helping them realise that their hands, which once worked in silence, can now shape their own futures.”

Ever since the inception of the initiative in 2017, we have skilled more than 5,000 women in sewing, pattern making, and hand embroidery. Over 4,500 Sewing Machine Operators (SMOs) have been placed in garment factories, while over 500 women have been trained in embroidery and placed under luxury designers. Through our efforts, we have positively impacted more than 15,000 lives, she added.

India’s embroidery and stitching traditions date back centuries, with royal patronage fuelling some of the most elaborate handcraft techniques the world has seen. The Mughal era saw the flourishing of Zardozi—metallic threadwork fit for nobility. Gujarat’s Kutch region became synonymous with mirror work and colourful thread embroidery, while Punjab’s Phulkari became an intrinsic part of a woman’s bridal trousseau. The Chikankari of Lucknow, initially introduced by Persian artisans, became a staple of elegance and refinement.

Yet, despite embroidery being a common household skill among women, the commercial side of these crafts has remained largely male-dominated. Historically, master artisans—known as karigars—who worked in royal ateliers, couture houses, and high-end textile industries were overwhelmingly men. The meticulous handwork seen in luxury labels and bridal couture, even today, is largely executed by male craftsmen working in workshops across cities like Delhi, Mumbai, and Kolkata.

So why, when millions of Indian women are adept at embroidery from a young age, has the professional field remained closed off to them?

One reason lies in the structural barriers of the industry. Traditional craft workshops have long been male-led spaces where skills are passed down from father to son, leaving little room for women to enter. Societal norms have also played a role—women were often expected to practise embroidery within the confines of their homes, while men pursued it as a profession.

However, we knew that if we were to truly make a difference, we had to break this cycle—not just by providing skills, but by shifting mindsets.

Across India, more and more women are stepping beyond household embroidery to become professional artisans, entrepreneurs, and designers in their own right. Social enterprises, NGOs, and skill development programmes are playing a crucial role in equipping them with the necessary tools to transition from informal work to professional craftsmanship.

We envisaged Project Unnati recognising the gap between skill availability and employment opportunities, and thus, the project focuses on equipping women and youth with vocational training in sewing machine operations, embroidery, pattern-making, and retail.

Initially, many of the women we worked with had little faith in their own abilities. They were hesitant, but as they started to master new techniques and saw their creations being valued and sold, something changed. The same women who once believed they were only meant to sew for their families were now designing garments, launching businesses, and taking control of their financial independence.

Aarti, a 22-year-old from Bulandshahr, Uttar Pradesh, grew up in a family where financial struggles dictated her choices. Despite completing her education up to the 12th grade, she knew that formal schooling alone wouldn’t secure her a stable future. Marriage and household responsibilities soon followed, but Aarti always held an interest in sewing—one she hoped could lead to financial independence.

After relocating to Noida, she discovered Project Unnati and, with encouragement from her husband, enrolled in the Sewing Machine Operator training programme. In just 45 days, she gained expertise in garment-making techniques, boosting her confidence and unlocking opportunities she never imagined possible. Soon after, she secured a job, helping support her family during difficult times. Her savings even allowed her to buy a plot of land—a milestone she once thought was unattainable. Today, Aarti sews not just for others but also for her young child, proving that one skill, when nurtured, can transform a life. “As we continue our work, we are also seeing a shift in power—women are not just workers in the textile industry; they are becoming leaders, entrepreneurs, and innovators,” Aarti says.

Luxury labels and major fashion houses in India are increasingly recognising the importance of empowering women artisans. Some high-end brands now actively partner with female-led embroidery clusters, acknowledging the unique creativity and skill that women bring to the craft. Fashion initiatives that promote hand embroidery as a sustainable and ethical alternative to mass-produced garments are further boosting women’s involvement in the industry.

The transformation of India’s embroidery and stitching industry is more than just an economic shift—it is a cultural one. The very craft that has been part of women's lives for generations is now becoming a tool for empowerment, professional recognition, and financial independence.

By equipping women with technical skills, professional training, and entrepreneurial opportunities, India is not just preserving its rich textile legacy—it is ensuring that its future is more inclusive, diverse, and dynamic. One stitch at a time, women are no longer just the silent keepers of this legacy. They are now its future.